Thursday 26 November 2015

Kapiti Island Sojourn 1


Welcome to the Midnight Collective Broadsheet 101
Actively supporting NZ’s endangered wetland birds
  
 Shoulder High!  Youthful kaka on Kapiti Island -foto Ridgway Lythgoe


We are just back from our stay on Kapiti Island and will be reporting on that sojourn over the next few posts. This is New Zealand’s premier conservation reserve and it has a rich though not always laudable history. 

It was named Entry Island by James Cook in 1770 and one of the most famous of the Maori Rangatira -Te Rauparaha- is buried here in an unmarked grave (to forestall his enemies digging him up). Called the Napoleon of the South, he was also one of the most violent, so it is a fitting redemption perhaps, that much of the Island was declared a conservation reserve by the first effective Liberal administration elected in the country, in the 1890’s.
Kapiti Island from Raumati Beach

The Island is now co-managed with local Iwi (Maori) who operate a Visitor Centre at the top end of the island. It was a whaling station for many years however, and the Right Whale in particular, having been exterminated from these waters, is yet to return.

It lies 5 km’s off shore. That’s  about a 20 minute boat trip on a good day, but it remains very isolated (to keep it rat, mouse,  stoat, possum etc free); and the crossing can be tricky. There are fierce rip tides twice daily, while the weather can change it from docile to ballsy within half an hour, especially at this blustery time of the year.  Trips are dependent on the early morning weather forecast so visitors can have a frustrating time getting across, especially with boat skippers erring on the side of safety.
Marginal condiitons out in the strait 
Even in these days of helicopters, wifi and radio telephone,  it can still feel a very isolated locale, though not so much as it was for the first custodians Stan and Amy Wilkinson and family. When Amy broke her leg in the 1920's, Stan had to light a bonfire on the beach to summon help from the Mainland.
Inside Kapiti Island forest
The island was originally covered in podocarp forest, dominated by red flowering rata, but like much of the rest of the country, this was burnt and cleared by successive waves of European immigrants, to establish farms. It was never economic however, and  this led to its establishment as our earliest conservation venture, though it remained infested with possum and rat in particular.  
Remains of giant rata burnt out in nineteenth century fires.
The forest  was left to regenerate yet even after 120 years there are few of our large forest trees here. These are rata trees which were in the Island's gullies and escaped the fiery holocaust. They bloom red from about now. Much of what is now on the island is understory regrowth, but this still gives the island the haunting beauty, typical of our temperate podocarp. The forest birds, wiped out with the forest were gradually reintroduced.
Mist shrouded forest at the top of the Island
We hadn’t been back to the island for around a decade and it was gratifying to see how this regrowth has continued to flourish. This is particularly true up at the Iwi end of the island where regenerating bush has now taken back the former farming areas.            
The typically patchworked greens of New Zealand regenerating forest
In one of the most successful of our early pest eradication programmes Kapiti Island was declared pest free in the late 1980’s. It has been intensively managed since then and this has led to an explosion in  numbers of the many endangered forest species that find a refuge here. These include hihi, tieke, kiwi, kokako, kakariki, korimiko tui, kaka, robin (all birds) along with gekko and skink and our big lumbering dinosaur of a bird– the takahe amongst others and in our next posts, we’ll detail our encounters with some of these… Kapiti Island is as close as you can get to the experience of what Aotearoa/NZ was like before the arrival of the human  and it is this that provides the magic of even the shortest  visit there.

Track we were listening to
We’ve been on a Charlie Parker bender. Five CD’s from his Carnegie Hall appearances. Its tooooo much….Yet how appropriate; to be in bird-land listening to Bird…

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